Q. Mike: Large bees are boring
holes in our deck and scaring children and adults! Help!
---Susan in
Vineland, New Jersey
Mike: We have carpenter bees attacking the house and my husband wants
to call an exterminator. What can we do?
---Mary Kay in
Washington, D.C.
Mike: My husband says he heard a guest on your program say that the
only way to get rid of carpenter bees is to let them bore into a
certain kind of wood, then plug up the holes and throw the wood out
along with bees. If this is true, what type of wood?
---Elaine in
Yardley, Pennsylvania
A. Although they are big and
fearsome looking, carpenter bees don’t sting people (as with most
Native bees, the males can’t and the females don’t want to; women
always seem to be more sensible). AND they rarely—if ever—cause any
real damage to wood. Honest. Reference books note that homeowners
almost always overreact to the non-threat they pose.
But they are fabulous pollinators that will greatly improve your garden
if you allow yourself to coexist with them. Here’s how: Drill some
‘starter holes’—the same size as the bees are making in your siding or
deck—into big unfinished blocks of cedar, pine or other soft wood and
hang these ‘nesting blocks’ in a protected area facing South or East
near the area they’re currently using. And no, we aren’t going to trap
the bees inside and throw them away; we’re going to get them to live
there—instead of with you.
Make your nesting blocks and get them up as early as possible in the
Spring—so you can get the bees to move before the females actually lay
any eggs in the nests you want them to abandon.
After the blocks are hung, wait till the middle of the first warm,
sunny day—when the bees will be out looking for flowers to
pollinate—and quickly plug up the holes they’ve made in your home with
steel wool or metal screening stapled overtop. And/or soak the surface
with almond oil; Cornell researchers found that it repels carpenter
bees. Just don’t spray the bees! (Massage therapists use lots of almond
oil; you’ll be able to find it wherever they buy their supplies.)
The only way to keep carpenter bees from trying to sublet your siding
is to paint, varnish or replace the unfinished cedar or redwood on the
outside of your home. Yes, I know you used those naturally
rot-resistant woods because you thought you wouldn’t have to do those
things, but these soft woods are very attractive to wood-boring bees.
Q. Dear Mike McGrath: Do you
have any information about ground bees? We have an infestation in the
lawn where the kids play on the swing set; there are tens of thousands
of them! They land on the kids when they go in the yard and you can see
them swarming all over when you drive by the house; the neighbors even
comment on it. This happens every Spring, and we can't use the yard for
months. We tried an exterminator but it did no good.
---Hope and
Russell in Chestnut Hill
A. Well, it may seem like “tens
of thousands”, but it is more likely “hundreds”. Several types of
ground nesting Native bees are very active in the Spring, nest building
and pollinating early-flowering plants, but not in those kinds of
numbers.
As you know, the bees are very gentle. The males can’t sting (they may
act menacing, but the best they could do is head-butt you), and the
females can sting, but being women, know better. (That’s probably why
the guys DIDN’T get stingers.) You’d have to grab one to get stung. And
even then you’d have to grab a female. Yes, the odd bee may land on one
of your kids, but I’ll bet none have been stung or you would have
mentioned it.
These are great bees—far better pollinators of food plants
and flowers
than the imported European honeybee. Native bees fly earlier in the
season, fly in the rain, work longer hours and aren’t afflicted by the
numerous pests and diseases that attack honeybee colonies. And they’re
simply better pollinators in general, greatly increasing the number of
flowers on your ornamentals and the quality of your food crops.
Do nothing now. As you discovered, spraying poisons is more of a threat
to you than to the bees. They will soon settle down (in weeks, not
months; you exaggerator, you!) and virtually disappear.
Teach your children not to be afraid; that the males can’t sting and
the females won’t because…well, because they’re females. Explain that
these are friendly bees that will bring them loads of flowers and
pretty things in the garden—kind of like tiny buzzing Easter Bunnies.
Have the kids wear sandals or flip-flops when they’re outdoors in case
they should accidentally step on one.
Then deter them from hogging the swing set next year by creating a
natural barrier to their nesting. They only build their nests in bare
ground or turf that’s in terrible shape, so ‘bee prepared’ to improve
the soil and sow the seed of a nice cool-season
grass (like Kentucky bluegrass if the area is nice and sunny) in
the ground they’re using between August 15th and September 1st this
fall. Sowing at that perfect time of year for your region should insure
a nice thick, bee-proof lawn by Spring. (DON’T try sowing the seed over
the summer; young cool-season grass cannot survive heat.) Then cut your
new lawn at three inches high to keep it healthy and attractive to you
but unattractive to the bees.
And if you now fear that your garden will suffer in their absence,
leave some bare patches in an out of the way place. And if those
neighbors and/or passers-by point at your bees in horror this Spring,
just turn to them and say, “oh yes—our native bees; aren’t they great?
They’re fabulous pollinators—and the kids just love playing with them.”
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